My version of self bailing deck

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Re: My version of self bailing deck

Unread postby fair hooker » Mon Dec 18, 2017 9:34 pm

Thanks Carl for resurrecting this thread from 2016.

I got a new 2017 22 foot rigid HT OP in August. I have had it in the ocean out of Newport fishing and crabbing 4 or 5 times since. I pulled the floor boards for the first time today and found the undersides of the plywood was wet about four inches in from the edges with water trapped between the underside of the plywood and the foam or metal framing. The foam itself was mostly dry with a little bit of water sitting in a few low areas. The water did not seem to penetrate the foam. I have kept the boat in covered non heated storage and have avoided intentionally getting any water on the deck- I clean it up with a damp towel.

I called the Hewes factory to get their advise. I talked with Scott who handles Warranty issues. He told me the situation with the wet unpainted wood on the underside of the back deck, or the water between the decking and foam were not likely a problem. He said the foam was closed cell and would not absorb water, and that the plywood had a warranty against rot. It had apparently been treated- Scott is sending me the warranty from the plywood manufacturer. He indicated it was fine to hose off the deck. His answers made me feel a bit better, but I still do not like water and deck wash trapped between the plywood and foam.

I am now drying everything out and will make my best attempt to keep water out by using a sealant and possibly tape on all the edges and seams when I put it back together. I will again take the decking off after a few months to see if I have been successful at keeping water out.

I like Hibneth's method of keeping the deckwash out of the bilge by draining it into the container that is pumped out with the fishbox macerator pump. I will investigate this as well as Klamathcoho's use of gutter guard as filters to keep the bilge clean. I do not plan on using the back deck fish box except for gear storage.

So far I love my boat and see this as a minor and fixable concern.
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Re: My version of self bailing deck

Unread postby klamathcoho » Tue Dec 19, 2017 6:10 pm

One thing to consider is replacing the wood with a material that is impervious to water, then sealing it down with 3m 4200 to prevent any future water intrusion. I did that with my OP22 this past spring, using Thermolite fiberglass composite decking. I considered using diamond plate aluminum, but felt it would be too slick and I was worried about how wide of a span it could handle without sagging.

The issue is the plywood gets wet, then it warps, which then lets more water in, which then starts the vicious cycle.
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Re: My version of self bailing deck

Unread postby rwiley » Tue Dec 19, 2017 9:37 pm

Question - For those who have decided to seal their decks with 3M 4200 or 5200, I assume you pull up the plywood and seal under the edges? How hard is it to pull the boards back up again, if you have to? I was thinking it would be important to choose a sealant that remains flexible? What did you do to add sealant to the screws if anything? Thoughts?
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Re: My version of self bailing deck

Unread postby klamathcoho » Wed Dec 20, 2017 11:02 am

Don't use 5200 if you intend to pull the deck up ever again. That stuff is an industrial strength adhesive + sealant. 4200 is still very, very strong but more appropriate for a sealant. Both 4200 and 5200 will yellow in the sun... 3m 4000 may be a better choice for our decks (mildly adhesive, very UV resistant).

When I did my boat, I debated just re-sealing the deck using the original plywood. One of my deck boards was already waterlogged from a tear in the vinyl. so that pushed me towards replacement. I think the problem with just re-sealing the original wood is that the vinyl is going to crack/tear over time, and let water in, which is going to water log the plywood and ultimately seep in under it to the foam, which negates the benefit of sealing it.

If I were putting the original ply back w/ the vinyl on it, I'd think about putting down some strips of weather seal foam (the EPDM rubber kind) under the deck to keep water out. May need to use some fairly thick (like 1/2" or 3/4") material, as the structure under the deck isn't perfectly flat. Another option might be to remove the vinyl, sand down the pylwood, then coat with a high quality, durable paint, then coat the working surface with non-skid (I used Kiwi Grip on my thermolite deck). Then re-attach and seal the wood down with 3m 4200.
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Re: My version of self bailing deck

Unread postby rwiley » Wed Dec 20, 2017 7:31 pm

Thanks for the advise on the sealant options. With a new boat, I'm inclined to run with the existing structure for as long as I can. My last Hewescraft deck held up very well for the 6 years I had it. When I do eventually have to address the deck, I would be inclined to switch to the Thermolite. It looks like an amazing product. I'm curious what thickness of Thermolite is required to provide a solid deck that doesn't bow?
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Re: My version of self bailing deck

Unread postby klamathcoho » Wed Dec 20, 2017 10:11 pm

I used 5/8", as it was a lot cheaper than 3/4" and the local dealer of the stuff said it would have no problem bridging a 20" gap. So far, it has held up great, even with a 300# fishing buddy stomping on it.
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Re: My version of self bailing deck

Unread postby honda cat » Fri Dec 29, 2017 4:53 am

be nice to pipe the corner drains also onto this system
we have been adding one under center drains made out of aluminum thats light easy to remove and clean still have yet to figure out what to do with the corner drains they drop a lot of crud I the bilge

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Re: My version of self bailing deck

Unread postby honda cat » Fri Dec 29, 2017 5:11 am

I might suggest life caulk for sealing deck panels it is a poly sulfide sealer not a adhesive better choice better flexibility the same stuff you are supposed use when mounting a engine one back of boats much better resistance to chemicals like deck wash and cleaning products that keep you boat smelling good
keep the bottom of the floor panels dry there will be no mold or mildew under the floor panels any more also prevents salt water corrosion
foam that is shaved after installed is no longer closed and will absorb water and gain weight I might suggest painting any shaved foam under deck with a cheap exterior latex paint the will create a water proof barier seal It up and stop the foam from absorbing water too late to paint after its already wet
I been told foam will eventually dry out by a few people but have not yet seen any of that myself
a dry boat is a happy boat !
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Re: My version of self bailing deck

Unread postby rwiley » Fri Dec 29, 2017 11:04 am

I was wondering if there would be a way to build a system that would take the water from all 5 drain holes and let it gravity flow back to the in floor fish box where it would be pumped overboard. This way you wouldn't lose use of the fish box macerator pump. I'm not sure the physical layout /elevation from the drains to the fish box would allow for a gravity fed system? Just a thought.
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Re: My version of self bailing deck

Unread postby klamathcoho » Tue Jan 02, 2018 12:25 pm

I think the ideal solution would just be to have a real self-bailing deck welded up. Raise the deck about 6" higher than the standard, scupper drains out the back at the transom, with diamond plate flooring welded down. You'd have a step down going into the cabin and increased risk of head banging, but you'd also not have to worry about any of this stuff. You''d also get a bigger fish box!
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