Garmin Reactor 40 Auto Pilot

DennyK1954
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Re: Garmin Reactor 40 Auto Pilot

Unread post by DennyK1954 »

I have my AP controlling the main with a tie bar to the kicker. I have no problem set up this way and am very pleased with this setup (Simrad/Lowrance AP). My Yamaha T25 kicker has a remote electronic variable trolling switch which allows you to change the rpm's in 50 rpm increments up or down from the helm at trolling speeds.
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HaweaterHal
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Re: Garmin Reactor 40 Auto Pilot

Unread post by HaweaterHal »

I have the Lowrance setup as well as the Troll Master speed control on the kicker.
Autopilot controls the main which is tied to the kicker.
Love the autopilot for trolling and running off shore.
I only steer manually about 5% of the time.
I have only had problems with kicker not controlling the direction on days when I probable shouldn't have been offshore (15 to 20 mph wind).
I have trolled down wind in 40 MPR wind (got 28 MPG) with no problem.
I would never own a boat without an autopilot again.
It is like having an extra crew member who weighs 5 LB and does exactly what he is told.
2015 190 Sea Runner ET
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2015 Suzuki DF9.9TL
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Teacherman
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Re: Garmin Reactor 40 Auto Pilot

Unread post by Teacherman »

Now that I decided to put the AP on the main and run the kicker with tie bar, with itrol hooked up to both the main and kicker.
I would like to stick with the Garmin componets, what size Reactor 40 do I need. I own a 190 sea runner with 150 Honda and a 9.9 kicker. Do I need the smart pump v2 that is $4,000 or the compact reactor 40 that is $2000. They both have ther GHC and shadow drive. Im not looking to throw away money here but I want to get it right the first time and experience is often the best teacher.
HaweaterHal
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Re: Garmin Reactor 40 Auto Pilot

Unread post by HaweaterHal »

I have the same boat with the Lowrance system and a 175 HP motor.
The Lowrance autopilot was originally specked for 150HP and less.
Has no problem with the 175 at full throttle.
I would not want the GHC as a separate control from the MFD.
While cruising I have the Auto Pilot controls, engine data for two engines and the chart all on one 12 in Lowrance Live MFD.
Shadow drive is not available on my system.
You can over power the autopilot with the wheel to avoid logs and what not.
2015 190 Sea Runner ET
2017 Suzuki DF175TX
2015 Suzuki DF9.9TL
SHOCKWAVE S5 Marine Suspension with Corbin seats and slid swivel
Troll Master kicker speed control
Scotty Downriggers
Scotty crab/ shrimp pot puller
Lectrotab Trim Tabs
Miller Marine Rail System
Pro Fillet Table

Lowrance
HDS9 Carbon and p66 transducer
HDS12 Live and 3 in one transducer
Outboard Pilot and precision compass
SonicHub Sound System with Iphone Dock
Halo 20+ Radar
Link 8 VFH
nortontoo
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Re: Garmin Reactor 40 Auto Pilot

Unread post by nortontoo »

..first post here. Glad I stumbled across these forums.. already found a bunch of good relevant info.
Teacherman wrote: Tue Oct 05, 2021 6:04 am Now that I decided to put the AP on the main and run the kicker with tie bar, with itrol hooked up to both the main and kicker.
I would like to stick with the Garmin componets, what size Reactor 40 do I need. I own a 190 sea runner with 150 Honda and a 9.9 kicker. Do I need the smart pump v2 that is $4,000 or the compact reactor 40 that is $2000. They both have ther GHC and shadow drive. Im not looking to throw away money here but I want to get it right the first time and experience is often the best teacher.
You need the expensive version that uses the smartpump v2. The compact reactor has a very small pump and is not designed to meet the challenge to maintain a heading at slow speed. If you keep reading the fine print you will see this statement.

This conversation is timely as I am in the same position of contemplating AP on the main + tiebar to kicker... or AP on the kicker only via Reactor 40 Kicker combo. The Garmin Reactor 40 kicker looks super cool, but my kicker is already tied to my main so I am considering springing for the SmartPump V2 AP. Plus, I think it would be nice to have AP on the main. One thing I did not see mentioned that should be considered. Yes, you may get more steering angle out of a kicker that is not tied to the main... but there is an advantage to having the kicker tied to the main. With the main down, you get the benefit of it as a rudder. That may more than compensate for missing range of steering you lose on the kicker. I always troll with my main in the water and find that I have adequate steering range.
redleader
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Re: Garmin Reactor 40 Auto Pilot

Unread post by redleader »

Teacherman, I have the reactor 40 on my ocean pro. The problem is that the reactor 40 designed for the kicker comes with throttle control for the kicker. I use the tie bar. I love the AP, but want to control kicker speed with my remote. not an option at this time.( watch the tube and you will see.
nortontoo
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Re: Garmin Reactor 40 Auto Pilot

Unread post by nortontoo »

redleader wrote: Tue Oct 19, 2021 9:17 pm Teacherman, I have the reactor 40 on my ocean pro. The problem is that the reactor 40 designed for the kicker comes with throttle control for the kicker. I use the tie bar. I love the AP, but want to control kicker speed with my remote. not an option at this time.( watch the tube and you will see.
Mark.. to confirm.. you have the reactor 40 with smartpump v2? Is that correct? No issues with its ability to maintain heading at trolling speeds? How about wind and chop? I'm want a more warm and fuzzy before pulling the trigger on this setup.
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Re: Garmin Reactor 40 Auto Pilot

Unread post by Nate »

Which compass are you using?
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F200xb
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